On the
trail near Khumjung
Trip to Nepal--November, 2001
Part II
9 Nov.
Frosty and cold (30 F). Breakfast served to us in inn. We began with a pleasant
descent with lovely mountain views behind us and in front of us. After some
distance, we took a lesser trail upward. The trail seemed to disappear into
cliffs, but the trail went up the cliffs requiring steep stepping and some scrambling,
using hands as well as feet. Above the cliffs, the trail continued upward at
a more comfortable angle. We saw lovely Nepalese pheasants (the national bird)
and mountain goats. The trail crested at a ridge with a chorten and great views
of Ama Dablan and other mountains. Descended steeply to a river, losing over
1,000 feet of altitude. Our lunch was fixed at an inn by the river. After an
hour and our usual large, hot lunch, we headed down a short bit and crossed
the river. The river was green because of its load of glacial flour. Then we
headed up a continuously steep trail, part of which was snow-covered and slippery.
We crested out at another lovely chorten at the lower edge of Phrotse, our destination
town. We walked through rock-walled, small agricultural fields to the yard where
we camped at 12,700 feet (3,840 m.on the map, for the town). This was the hometown
of 2 of our Sherpas (Lhakpa and Ang Tenzi; Gopal is from Phakding). We were
camping in Lhakpa's terraced yard. After my tent was up, I crawled into my sleeping
bag and went to sleep. Felt rested afterwards. Others in the group walked up
the steep hillside to the monastery that was only 5 yearrs old and funded by
an Englishman. Tea at 4 in the smokey kitchen of the house. At dusk, a helicopter
circled and landed in a yard. Rumor was that it was picking up a sick party
of Japanese, but we didn't see anyone board it.
On the
trail near Khumjung
Ama
Dablan on right, Phortse to left.
Chorten
at pass & Ama Dablan
10 Nov
Slept until awoken by the tea guy. Frosty and clear. The usual large breakfast
served.. Around 8 we started off, climbing a bit then a long descent to the
river. Saw mountain goats and musk deer. Around 0915 we reached bridge at 11,900
feet. Following our sirdar's (Lhakpa) lead, we spent some time picking up trash
and burning it. (We shared a common sense of wishing everyone would keep their
litter on their person.) Then up a steep trail. Slipped a few times on snow-covered
parts of the trail. We reached the crest and Tengboche around 1030 after a strenuous
climb. Altitude 12,800 ft. (3967 m.).
Tengboche (Tyangboche, and other spellings) has to be the most beautiful place
on Earth. Its on a flat part of a small ridge crest with a monastery dominating
the town. Surrounded by mountains, including Ama Dablan. Everest, on the distant
sky line is not conspicuous because of the stunning mountains in the foreground.
Our tents were already pitched on a narrow ridge above the town. We soaked in
the view, consuming the hot lemonades brought to us.
It had occurred to me earlier that a significant part of my pleasure from seeing
these incredible mountains was because I could appreciate them without any desire
to climb them. I had always wanted to climb in the Himalaya, during my climbing
days (I had been a member of an expedition that never came to fruition).
After lunch, Gopal led us to the chorten in the saddle above Tengboche and the
prayer flags beyond. I stopped here and the rest of the group followed him higher
up the hillside.
Part
of Khumjung in center, trail leading toward Phortse angling up hillsideon
right.
Ama Dablan
on right, the mountains in front of Everest to left. Everest rises above ridge.
Tengboche
on right. Khumjung in notch to left.
Tengboche
in background seen from the ridge above it.
Tea around 1530. Around 1600 we went to the vicinity of the monastery. Visited
the monastery exhibit and gift shop. A monk blew a conch to signal the gathering
of monks. After a few minutes, he blew again. This went on for awhile. Then
a chorus of conch player monks appeared in a monastery window. The young (some
very young) monks outside filed into the building, The crowd of trekkers, mostly
Europeans, filed in after taking off shoes. We sat or stood against the walls.
The older monks had already been in the building. Ritual tea was served and
the monks and chanting began, along with musical interludes (long horns and
cymbals). We left after 15 minutes as this was supposed to go on for 80 minutes.
It began clouding over and getting cold quickly. A beer before and after supper,
but too cold to taste good. In my sleeping bag around 2000 and asleep around
2130. Temperature at 32 F.
Tenboche
Our
camp at Tengboche
Me at
Tengboche
Our
camp at Tengboche. Ama Dablan to right.
11 Nov.
I was awake half hour before tea-awakening at 0600. Cold (26 F) and clear. Breakfast
and we were off at 0730.
From Tengboche, a nice long descent to the river. We passed a family of mountain
goats and some musk deer. What appeared to be varves were seen high in the valley.
Reached the bridge at 0855 at 10,950 feet. Started up the trail on the other
valley side. Views of the previous 2 days' trails. Lunch at 12,000 feet at 1145.
Thamserku, the mountain SE of us, has spectacular aretes and other glacially
carved features.
After an hour for lunch, we continued walking, with the trail more or less contouring
around. Eventually, we walked around a bend into the upper outskirts of Namche
Bazaar. We arrived at our campsite shortly after 1400--elevation 11,750 feet.
Our camp was pitched on a narrow terrace high above downtown Namche.
We walked back up the hill a short distance and visited the region's museum.
Afterwards, I made the 400 vertical feet descent to central Namche. Checked
email at the costly cyber café. 85 messages. I only read the one from
Beth. Bought some artifacts and climbed back to camp in time for supper. Supper
included yak steak, pizza, tempura vegetables. After supper, we sorted out the
tips we would give to our entourage, following the suggested tip guidelines
provided by TM.
On the
trail 11 November
Trail from
Tengboche to Namche. Ama Dablan on right.
Downtown
Namche as seen from our camp.
12 Nov.
Up at 0600 with the tea and wake-up call. . I would have a strenuous day. The
other four were to take two days to get back to Lukla. My itinerary called for
me to go from Namche to Lukla in one day. The others would take two days to
return to Lukla. So I would have one Sherpa (Ang Tenzi Sherpa) and one porter.
At 0730 said goodbye to everyone and Tenzi and I headed down the trail. Resented
the extra 400 feet to get down to downtown Namche. During the steep descent
to the river, I felt good and my legs felt as in my younger, mountaineering/mountain
geologist days. So, I went down rapidly, springing from rock to rock and step
to step. We reached the bridge at the base of the long, steep trail at 0830.
Altitude 9,550 feet. We had dropped 2,200 feet in an hour.
We continued climbing, descending, climbing, descending, retracing our route
of the first two days. My legs felt relatively weak and I regretted the bouncy
descent. At 1040 we reached the yard above Tok Tok where we had camped the 1st
night. Our cook team was preparing lunch for the other 4. We stopped and they
brought me a hot orange drink. Relaxed and recouped some of my energy. Tenzi
said we weren't having lunch there so we moved on.
Ang Tenzi
Sherpa
Passed a guy with a Dartmouth T-shirt. We talked a bit. He is Dave McGilner
class of ‘88 and a pediatrician in Seattle on his way back from Everest
base camp. 
Lunch in a typical place in one of the many towns. Leg of beef hanging from
the ceiling. Tenzi broke out the "lunch box" with bread from breakfast,
cheese, sardines, apple. Milk tea and a fried egg omelet from the establishment.
A little Sherpa boy was tormenting his little sister in the small room.
We plodded on. The trail was very busy. Discouraging to see that we were losing
altitude overall in our ups and downs and knowing that we would have to climb
to Lukla which is at 9,500–essentially the same altitude of the first bridge
of the day. We dropped to a low of 8,500 feet. Finally, we got to the last long
grade for the climb to Lukla.
At Lukla, we walked through the main street almost to the airport and entered
the Namaste Hotel and Restaurant. This is evidently TM headquarters. Time 1500.
Muscles and back quite tired. After a while, Tenzi brought my duffle and I was
given a room. I mentioned to Tenzi that it was a tiring day. He said "But
you very strong." while flexing his arms. I replied "Not strong like
a Sherpa." He replied, "You very strong." I like to think it
is a complement to have a Sherpa think you are strong. He probably meant strong
for an elderly westerner. Followed Tenzi to behind the hotel to give tip to
porter and him. Then met with TM man who went to check on flight time, etc.while
I sat at restaurant. Had a milk tea. Down jacket on and heater on, but still
felt somewhat cold. Eventually, the TM man came back with information.
Wandered around a bit and brought back a large beer. Noted the hotel had a hot
shower, took it and it felt great.
Supper at the hotel. Tomato egg drop soup and a plate of fried noodles with
tough meat and vegetables–too large to finish. Had a glass of chiang, the
local alcoholic drink. Not great stuff.
Very tired. Measuring on the map I had covered over 17 Km horizontally in addition
to the ups and downs.
13 Nov.
Got up at 0630. Hauled my bag downstairs. The TM agent took it to the airport
while I ate breakfast.
Paid R200 (around $2.50) for the room. At 0800 Tenzi led me rapidly up the steep
steps to the airport. The usual chaotic scene. I stood in line until the TM
man came with boarding pass and had me go through security to the waiting room.
Helicopters and Twin Otters landed and deported. Finally, the II Yeti flight
arrived and around 0900, we passengers collected at the airplane's doorway while
the plane, full of cargo, was unloaded. Many cases of Tuborg and bags of onions.
One of the onion bags had broken and it took a while to get all of the onions
off the plane's deck. Great smell. Finally, they got the seats up and we boarded.
The attendant passed out candy and wads of cotton for the ears.
We took off racing down the short, steep runway and, according to my altimeter,
we climbed from 9,500 to over 11,000 to clear ridges.
At Kathmandu, got my bag and was met by the TM man. Drove me to hotel and got
me settled. Nice room on second floor of hotel.
Took my laundry to another hotel and bought some curios from street vendors.
At hotel, sorted through email (over 100 messages).
Drinks at the Maya Bar, dinner at Third Eye. Excellent Indian food: Mutton massala
curry and garlic nan. Asleep around 2130.
Coming up Kathmandu and Bangkok, including a Hindu military funeral, complete
with burning of the body on a bon fire. If you are not on my regular emailing
list and you want to be notified when I get the website up send a message to:
PlummerCC@csus.edu
My homepage http://www.csus.edu/indiv/p/plummerc/PLUMMER.HTM
To go to Part I